‘A Bearinge Clothe for the Christeninge’: Part 2: Materials and Making of a Bearing Cloth in the Metropolitan Museum (2016.526)

Balloffet Carr, Cristina; Wilson Nguyen, Patricia; Brooks, Mary M.

Abstract

This paper presents results of detailed interdisciplinary technical and design analysis of the Metropolitan Museum’s bearing cloth (MET 2016.526), contextualised in the first of this series of three papers. It examines the hypothesis that it was made in a professional workshop and frames deductions about its making. Mathematical modelling using needle moves to create stitch labour time equations enabled calculation of the amount of time required to work the whole embroidery, divided by the number of embroiderers to establish the chronological time the work took from start to finish. Study of the principles underlying the design and its application demonstrated techniques employed to speed up the embroidery work while also showing where there was latitude for individual embroiderers to interpret motifs and select stitches. Results show that this was a high-quality bearing cloth that was professionally worked and a group of embroiderers could actually complete the embroidery quite quickly, certainly to meet a deadline. The outcome is greater understanding of the way in which the type of embroidery on this bearing cloth was worked, managed and produced in an early modern professional embroidery workshop, by developing and applying a mathematical modelling methodology.

Citation

Balloffet Carr, C., Wilson Nguyen, P., & Brooks, M. M. (2025). ‘A Bearinge Clothe for the Christeninge’: Part 2: Materials and Making of a Bearing Cloth in the Metropolitan Museum (2016.526). Textile History. Advance online publication. https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2025.2483190

• Journal Article Type: Article
• Acceptance Date: Mar 16, 2025
• Online Publication Date: Nov 11, 2025
• Deposit Date: Nov 17, 2025
• Publicly Available Date: Nov 17, 2025
• Journal: Textile History
• Print ISSN: 0040-4969
• Electronic ISSN: 1743-2952
• Publisher: Taylor and Francis Group
• Peer Reviewed: Peer Reviewed
• DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2025.2483190
• Public URL: https://durham-repository.worktribe.com/output/4829501